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Compliments of:
Cruising Full Circle
Whether
its golf, beachcombing, fishing or museums you’re
after,
a BC ferry tour gets you – and your RV –
where you want to be. |
Story and Photos by Jo-Ann Searls
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One
of the most serene recreational vehicle excursions in Canada
is the Vancouver Island-Powell River-Sunshine Coast loop.
There are six Circlepac Tour routes you can choose from
BC Ferries. Our route began in Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo
side trip to Tofino, up island to Comox, across to Powell
River and down to the Sunshine Coast. This trip could quickly
become one of your favourites. And ‘quickly’ refers only
to the time it takes to become endeared, because BC island
travelling should be relaxing.
The Queen of Coquitlam is one of numerous
BC ferries that will take you on Circlepac routes.
Fort Langley
It took just under four hours to get from our starting point
of Kelowna to the fringe of Vancouver, where we were guests
of Fort Langley RV Resort and Campground, which is walking
distance from Fort Langley’s historic downtown. Known
as the first European establishment in the Fraser Valley,
the fort is a thriving agricultural and residential area
with plenty of tourist services.
Lower Mainland
We chose to stay awhile here before embarking on the Circlepac
Tour. We had heard about Pacific Border RV Park, near the
Peace Arch U.S. Canadian border, and it turned out to be
an ideal venue, close to all the activities we had planned.To
begin our tour, we crisscrossed 71 kilometres of highways
from the U.S./Canada border into Vancouver. Before we approached
the Lions Gate Bridge with its spectacular views, we briefly
stopped at Stanley Park where we parked our unit in one
of the many RV friendly, hourly paid parking lots.
West Vancouver
Following the invitation only Vancouver Rowing Club’s A
Taste of the Sunshine Coast press conference, we journeyed
across the Lions Gate Bridge through West Vancouver (route
Hwy 99 Squamish Highway). This took us to Horseshoe Bay
on Howe Sound where we boarded the Nanaimo Ferry, arriving
at Departure Bay’s Ferry Terminal.
White Rock, B.C.’s Ulee’sRestaurant
is just one of the many places
to dine and gaze at the Pacific Ocean ,while staying at
Pacific Border RV Park.
Nanaimo
Then, Nanaimo was in view. Its name originates with Sne
ney mux, the people who were there when the first coal mine
was developed by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1852. Up until
the early 1900s, the Sne ney mux worked in mines alongside
European and Chinese laborers. Now the city is a hub of
tourism activity with freighters, fish boats, tugs and barges,
yachts and floatplanes coming and going. There are two dozen
parks, making up a total of 1,100 hectometers. To fully
appreciate Nanaimo, we got off the highway that bypasses
the city, and made our way through its heart, which is brimming
with waterfront walkways, gardens, golf courses, and beaches.
“We gave you one of our best scenic spots,” the host of
Living Forest Oceanside RV Park informed me when we checked
in, that dark night. Imagine how startled we were when we
awoke the next morning, and opened the truck camper door
to the most beautiful scenic image of ferries entering and
leaving Duke Point.
Port Alberni
From Nanaimo, we headed west across the island, where we
decided to overnight in Port Alberni. Six kilometres from
the port’s centre, we discovered a privately owned gem called
The Arrowvale Riverside Campground & Cottages. It was situated
in a quiet, rural setting where grassy campsites offer beautiful
views of the Somass River and mountains.
Sitting in Bob and Ann’s onsite, veranda coffee shop, my
retired chef/brother-in-law thought he’d gone to heaven
after buying up their complete supply of Natural Pastures
cheese made in Courtenay, BC. In the meantime, they treated
us to their specialties, homemade pie and coffee. Arrowvale
is one of those sweet little places you feel lucky to find.
Tofino
It’s a challenging drive from there to Tofino, a world-renowned,
pretty little fishing village. Finding a wonderful RV spot
overlooking the Pacific Ocean at Bella Pacifica Campground,
we were fortunate because ocean sites require reservations.
There Mackenzie Beach presents the Pacific Ocean at its
best. It’s very hard to leave this area, as there is so
much to do if you’re up for traversing Hwy 4, the only road
that cuts through the entire island.
Once there, it’s worth the drive. Transportation Canada
was upgrading, and we encountered a few delays along the
route. We had barbecued steaks that night at the campground
while gazing at the vista.
Qualicum Bay
The highway was smooth as silk past Port Alberni as we drove
back across the island to popular Parksville, and chose
to stay at the Qualicum Bay RV Resort and Campground. This
area is known for its superb golfing and beachcombing. Fishing
and forestry in this area have been surpassed by construction
and tourism, and there’s now a continuous string of resorts
and tourist facilities between Parksville and Qualicum Beach.
(Watch for an upcoming feature on Parksville.)
Comox and Cumberland
The balance of the tour awaited, so it was ‘up island’ to
the Comox Valley, which encompasses the City of Courtenay,
Town of Comox, and Village of Cumberland. The valley is
known as the island’s alpine-to-ocean destination.
You can hike in the meadows of Strathcona Provincial Park
near Mt.Washington. And, in waters surrounding the valley,
you can turn your attention to kayaking or fishing. There
are 50 festivities and events in the valley, not to mention
six local, year-round golf courses. We didn’t have time
to visit the four major museums in the area, but did enjoy
world-famous Fanny Bay oysters at The Old House Restaurant
in Courtney.
From the centre of Courtney, it’s not far to Cape Lazo Resort
RV and Campground in Comox. It’s also one of the closest
RV parks to the ferry we needed to catch next, at the Little
River terminal, which is just a short drive north of Comox.
Taking the ferry over the Strait of Georgia, we left Vancouver
Island behind. The voyage on the 75-minute passage covered
27 kilometres, straight across to Powell River.
Powell River
Docking at Westview Ferry Terminal, we easily found Willingdon
Beach’s Municipal RV Park. A 70-site campground on the waterfront,
it’s minutes from downtown.
One of few Canadian places designated national historic
regions (all others are in the Maritimes), Powell River
is a remarkably preserved example of a single-industry,
company built town from the early part of the 20th century.
The Powell River Paper Company was incorporated in 1909,
and began construction on the mill and surrounding town,
which was modelled loosely on the British City Garden Movement.
There were more than 400 homes built between 1911 and 1930.
Several guided and independent tours are available.
From there, it’s just 40 minutes of driving to the Saltery
Bay Ferry Terminal. While you wait for the ferry, don’t
miss a chance to buy a bite at the Saltery Bay Snack Shack.
We were surprised to find such delicious and memorable food
at what looked like a hotdog stand, and it’s the only kosher
restaurant on the peninsula.
The 50-minute ride to the Sunshine Coast is an ideal scenic
respite before continuing down Hwy 101. The ferry goes through
Jervis Inlet, passing the round tip of sparsely populated
Nelson Island. The voyage takes you into the Agamemnon Channel
where you’ll dock at Earl’s Cove Terminal.
Sunshine Coast
Our tour of this coast was next. Many people are unaware
that although on the mainland and north of Vancouver, the
Sunshine Coast is island-like in its existence, depending
largely on car carrying ferries for its connection to the
rest of the world. A main segment of the region, Sechelt
Peninsula is barely a peninsula, and it’s also a benchland
barricade from the rest of the mainland, due to forbidding
Coast Mountains. Secondgrowth western cedar, and Douglas
fir trees cover much of the area. Earl’s Cove to Langdale
ferry is only 81 kilometres, but it’s jam-packed with interesting
things to do and see. We parked our unit that night, and
became guests of Ruby Lake’s Resort and Spa, staying in
a guest cottage, and sampling gourmet Italian cuisine.
Numerous amenities at Ruby Lake Resort
and Rainforest Spa
on the Sunshine Coast include guided nature tours.
Pender Harbour
From there, we toured around this beautiful, deep harbour
area halfway between Vancouver and Princess Louisa Inlet.
It’s is a prime sport fishing area with dozens of resorts,
marinas, cabins and campground facilities, as well as a
nine-hole golf course. In Sechelt, we lunched on the deck
of the Lighthouse Rest at Porpoise Bay, and watched sea
planes take off and land.
Gibsons Landing
At the end of the peninsula, we arrived at picturesque Gibson’s,
where you can tour the tiny settlements of Hopkins Landing
and Grathham Landing. Built on a hillside overlooking Shoal
Channel and Howe Sound, it’s named after George Gibson,
who settled in 1886 when he and his two sons tried to sail
a sloop to Oyster Bay on Vancouver Island. A southeastern
blew them off course into Howe Sound.
We ate at Molly’s Reach Café the setting of the internationally
known TV series, The Beachcombers. When it was time
to return to the mainland, we easily found signs directing
us to the BC Ferry Langdale Terminal. Named the Queen of
Surrey, the ferry is a beauty that holds 370 cars, 1,500
people, and has an exclusive to B.C. and Alberta, White
Spot restaurant on board. We all enjoyed its legendary hamburgers.
Luckily it was still daylight, so we took in the scenery
as we sailed between Bowen and Gambier Islands on its 15.5-km,
35-minute voyage to Horseshoe Bay.
Regretfully, we returned to our starting point. I wasn’t
surprised to discover recently that Vancouver Island received
Conde Naste’s prestigious Northern American Top Island Tour
Award – for the seventh straight year.
We yearn to traverse another full circle route.
For more information on the BC Circlepac Tours, visit
our website at www.bcferries.com, or call
888-BCFERRY in BC and Alberta. In other parts of the world,
call 250-386-3431.(Ask about the 15 percent discount when
purchasing one-way fares.)
Article first printed in the Camping Canada's RV Lifestyle
Magazine (Volume 35 Number 1).
Website: www.rvlifemag.com
Copyright 2006 Camping Canada Magazine
Published and printed in Canada.
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